She Walks In Beauty

One of the great wonders of the fashion world as well as the business world is a company's/ fashion house's ability to change everything about themselves with one collection or innovative product. Such is the case with classic American milliner, Anne Klein. Evidence of what was to come began a few months ago when the fall collection for AK began its shoot for the Fall ad campaign. From the moment the ads subtlely penetrated the American media, everyone knew something was different, but the element of surprise had just begun to ensue.



I flipped open a Vogue about 2 months ago in mid-July and thumbed through the pages as I usually do. Scanning the various ads for Ready-to-Wear from the usual suspects, I wasn't particularly thrilled by what I saw. Except for Tod's, which in my opinion, is the best dressy/casual invention since sliced bread. But, with fashion, something is ALWAYS different. Just as I was about to close the periodical and place it back on the shelf, I found myself completely stumped mid-way through my browsing. What I saw was one of the best print ads for any couture house, hands-down.


To set the scene, a reed-thin model dressed impeccably in a slouchy silk trench, a structured woolen dress, and sky-high pumps leaned against a dark, shaded brick wall. The dark, shaded brick wall served as the perfect backdrop to highlight the the model and her divine dressings. Her face was contorted into such a look, that one might assume she was withdrawn into herself, as though she were an actress playing a role with such depth that not even a camera's eye could adequately archive her emotion. The dark atmosphere and imposing urban background gave the image its hard-edged look, thus bringing the look full circle. As you, the observer, interpret this image, you bring together all the ideas presented before you and thus make your judgements about the image. This will all occur in less than 45 seconds, and in that amount of time, the marketer has only that small window to get your attention and keep it. What you see in this ad is couture, art, design, and detail all meticulously planned in a such a format that you can do nothing but take in the splendor. Ingenious would be the adjective used to describe the layout. Taking decorated minimalism to a new level, Anne Klein's new collection had more gall than Jil Sander's celebrated art-house chic. Incredibly, this is what the marketing team at AK produced for the new series of beautiful pieces it sent down the runway at New York's fashion week. The looks that sashayed down the catwalks were a breath of fresh air from the corporate banality that the collections of previous years possessed. New silhouettes, gorgeous prints and knits, and luxe textiles paraded for all the shows attendees to see.

Structure was achieved without structure at all. Wispy resort collections featured hand painted cocktail dresses with innovative cuts, vibrant and rich colors, as well as updated styles. The dresses, made of wispy silk and linen were belted with sashes and sewn with loose pleats and darts for soft and clingy lines. Fall and winter featured fabulous gowns, skirts, jackets, and exquisite ready to wear. Tuxedo pants, with rive gauche glossy jackets were the new way to dress up for occasion. Masculinity was boldly embraced with colorful button ups, and bright suits. Everything about the clothes screamed femininity and masculine traditionalism. Yet, something new lurked behind the designs. This new element was a European flair, and artsy eclecticism. Scottish plaid and rich herringbone were combined to make a funky woolen trench for fall/winter, and espresso skinny slacks were worn underneath for a warm, but tough-as-nails evocation. It seemed as though Klein had given Burberry, Sander, and even Marc Jacobs a run for their money. Wide leg pants were worn with skimpy 80's throwback blouses, and brightly drab mustard creams were part of the monochrome uniform. Was this truly Ann Klein we were seeing, or a reinvention similar to that of Chanel in the 50's?

Although this wonderful maturation was brilliant in its own right, its partial success must be accredited to the marketing agency. Giving us a small taste of what was to come, the ads themselves gave us a new idea of what we could expect from the traditional American brand. This is where the marketing has its most admirable moments. Knowing exactly how to ignite a catalyst for change; the process should almost be patented if it hasn't already. Step 1: a brand makeover that isn't too overtly pretentious. Step 2: placement is precise and very appropriate. Step 3: the most difficult-- innovative creativity must peak interest and draw interest from its images. Saturation must NOT occur, the images must make a gradual integration into the market, and then a following will draw towards the product.


It seems as though Anne Klein took this to heart, and followed the precise steps towards its future. I don't think the label will ever be the same from this point forward. Under the direction of Isabel Toledo, the creations will continue to evolve into something much different and with a completely different look. She may have stepped gingerly with this collection, but if it's as well-received as I predict it will be, AK may be the new stop in luxury fashion for fashionista and celebrity alike. Humble beginnings certainly won't stop this change.


She'll probably enter a room and everyone will ask, "My God, you look stunning. Who are you wearing?" She'll nonchalantly reply "It's Anne Klein collection."


Get ready. www.anneklein.com

--Corey Fitzgerald